Review: Donato Enoteca
Saturday, July 4th, 2009Donato Enoteca is the latest in a line of recently opened restaurants in Redwood City (following 2007′s Slanted Door-wannabe Red Lantern and this year’s gastropub-without-the-pub Martin’s West). Of course, I had to try it, since it’s just a block away from the theater and the menu looked so promising. After dragging Demian all around Stanford Shopping Center yesterday in search of a new summer dress, we stopped at Donato Enoteca for an early dinner.
The interior is rustic elegant, with exposed wooden beam ceilings and an open kitchen trimmed with beautiful (and its appears, unused) copper pots and pans. You can dine indoors or al fresco, with the two areas separated by large, wood-framed windows and a door that permits the waitstaff to pass between the two without clogging the dining room – pretty clever, and something that I appreciate.
Service is good, but not perfect. Our water glasses were replenished frequently, appetizer and entrees came quickly, and the staff was friendly. However, there was a long wait – and a few attempts – to get the dessert menu because our waiter had disappeared after our entrees arrived.
The food is decent, but not memorable. There’s not a single thing – including the practically unsweetened lemonade – that I would come back for, except perhaps to have a glass of wine before a movie to enjoy the pretty restaurant.
Fresh, warmed foccacia is served with an olive oil, basil, garlic, and what we believed to be fresh mint aioli. The bread is good, but the aioli a little weird – the mint adds a very grassy taste that seems almost out of place. We started with an appetizer that I had been looking forward to, Calamaretti e Fagiol, Fresh Monterey Bay calamari with “bianchi di Spagna” beans and mache lettuce, plated to the side. The little calamari themselves were lightly poached, then slightly grilled, so a little crisp on the outside and barely cooked on the inside. I thought the seasoning was good – good balance of garlic and salt – but the plate was just too oily. Having the mache to toss in the oil helped, but the plate could have used a little acidity.
I had ordered the Risotto Nero, a squid ink risotto with Nova scallops, tiny cuttlefish hidden in the risotto, slices of cooked tomato flesh, and Marche DOP extra virgin olive oil. I am a sucker for squid ink, which, as I learned from Demian, is not the ideal choice for a date. Overall, I was happy with the flavor of the risotto, although it was a tad salty. It contrasted nicely with the sweet acidity of the tomatoes – a tasty combination of hearty and refreshing. Unfortunately, the scallops were overcooked and dry – a disappointment. Demian ordered what would have been my next choice, Foiade di Funghi, organic buckwheat parpadelle pasta with mixed wild mushrooms, garlic, parsley and slivers of Grana Padano cheese. Demian’s dish was also a disappointment – the pasta was grainy and flavorless, and the dish in general lacked any mushroom intensity.
Dessert was also so-so. My shortbread, basil cream, and peach dessert was just strange combination. A slightly sweet, very basily cream sat between two very hard shortbread “cookies” that tasted more like unsweetened scones. A sour, jammy sauce of cooked peaches was also out of place on the plate. Demian’s panna cotta was better, smooth layers of lemon, then bluberry panna cotta topped a strawberry and raspberry compote at the bottom of a martini glass. Again, decent, but not cravable.
The restaurant has potential, but there were too many misses for me to explore its potential again anytime soon.
Rating: Two stars.








