Santorini: May 26 to May 29 (with pictures!) – Updated
Editors’ note: Images added!!!
As it turns out, Santorini is a completely different experience from Mykonos, so I’m glad we decided to explore both islands on our trip. Whereas Mykonos is more of a resort island for the jet-set (Maui was a good comparison), Santorini is more historical, is full of tourists, and boasts sunsets that literally elicit applause from the crowd they draw every night. With that introduction, let’s dive in.
Day 1
Here are the highlights from our first day arriving in Santorini:
- Ferry to Santorini = FAIL. To get to Santorini from Mykonos, we had to survive a ferry ride of utter chaos. After waiting in one of two long lines to get onto the ferry (we were told it didn’t matter which line), once aboard, we were instructed that we needed to somehow fight our way, against the flow of bodies, to the other end of the ferry to store our luggage. Said “storage” area was an unenclosed pile of luggage thrown unsteadily together at the back of the ferry. Throughout the three hour ride, I kept thinking that one sharp turn would send our luggage (near the top of the heap) flying into the Aegean. Once docked in Santorini, we waited amongst the sweating masses to retrieve our luggage, which, by the time we reached it, had been tossed to different ends of the ship. Sigh.
(Demian’s Note) So some of these things will be so bad that I’m going to have to add in my super hate for what was going on here. There were absolutely no signs saying what we should do, everyone on the outside of the ship had NO idea what was going on, and when you’re inside the ship and asking where to store the luggage they send you to the back of the ship, where once you’re there they ask you why you didn’t store your luggage in the front. Utter ludicrousity I tells you! This same thing happened to at LEAST 5 other groups of people on the ship, and it looked like one lady refused to leave the back of the ship because she wanted to watch her luggage the whole time. WORST EXPERIENCE EVAR.
- Ikastikies Suites = Luxury Flintstones Accommodations. I decided to book a room in a traditional cave hotel in Firostefani, which turned out to be a great choice. Because Santorini has such steep cliffs, many of its buildings are carved right into the mountain, including the Ikastikies Suites, where we stayed. I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect, but was pleasantly surprised to find that although our suite evoked some Flintstones nostalgia with its white, curved walls, it was spacious and quite modern, with two bedrooms, a modern bathroom, a kitchen and living room, and (yes!) wireless internet. The two proprietors, Giorgos and Justin, were sweet and accommodating, warmly welcoming us with cocktails and snacks and imploring us to make ourselves at home.
(Demian’s Note) This place was indeed epic. Check out the photos below in the gallery, but there should be no hard edges at all in the room as everyone was literally carved out of caves inside the mountain. The view was absolutely amazing too!
- Dinner and Sunset FTW. We decided to grab dinner at Vanilia, only a few steps away from the hotel, at the edge of a cliff with a perfect view of the setting sun. Because we were seated in the garden area, Demian and I kept running out, one at a time, to catch a glimpse of the sunset, which was incredible. Even from the garden restaurant, I could see the sun start to turn everything pale gold, then rich pink, as it set. Even after the sun was gone, the sky was full of color—deep blues, greens, yellows, crimson. Dinner wasn’t half bad either
We started with garlicky, juicy steamed mussels, and then moved on to the island’s classic Santorinian salad of cucumber, tomatoes, caper berries, caper leaves, and cheese. We also shared a really tasty tuna spaghetti—perfectly al dente noodles tossed in a flavorful, almost briny tomato sauce. For dessert, I had the yogurt ice-cream (hard to taste the yogurt in it), topped with what I think were preserved figs, which had a nutty texture and flavor. Demian had a bitter chocolate soufflé cake, which he enjoyed very much.
As we walked back to the hotel, we took in the evening view of Oia, sparkling against the dark sky.
Then, at Demian’s request, we watched Ninja Assassin, which has got to be one of the most violent movies I have ever seen. An incongruent, but relaxing, way to end the evening.
Day 2
Ah, advencha! Our first full day in Santorini started leisurely enough, with a huge breakfast served to us in our suite (two different kinds of cereal, Greek yogurt with strawberries, a bowl of fruit, a plate of meats and cheeses, a basket of breakfast breads, and made-to-order omelets. Festively plump, we then made our way, along the island cliff, down to the town of Fira. With its closely packed souvenir shops and bustling eateries, Fira feels much different from Mykonos Town, with its high-end designer shops, garden restaurants, and uniform sugar-cube architecture. After browsing a little, we decided to return to the hotel to lie in the sun and figure out our plan for the rest of the day.
Our plan for the rest of the day ended up being to rent a Smart Car from “Jimmy,” a friend of our hotel proprietor, so that we could get around to our various activities planned for the following day (a cooking class in Pyrgos and massages in Oia). Never in my life did I think I would ever set foot in, much less be driven around in, a Smart Car. Ultimately, it made the most sense because it’s (obviously) tiny and fuel-efficient—a good “car” to get-around the island in. After bargaining Jimmy down to half the price he originally quoted us (*roll eyes*), we decided to take our death-trap . . . I mean, Smart Car . . . for a dry-run to Pyrgos.
(Demian’s Note) So treasure the pictures of me in this car, it might be the only proof you have of me in a Mercedes (they own Smart Car . . . I guess Mercedes Mini attempt =P) ANYWAYS, we initially planned on just taxiing everywhere because Jaci knows how stressed I get just dealing with all the idiots on the road in San Francisco, but the cost of renting a car was just a bit more than a one-way taxi trip to one of the places we wanted to visit. So being fiscally responsible, we ended up renting a Smart Car and of course I wouldn’t let Jaci drive because I feared for my life already driving that dinky little car. Feel free to ignore the below as it is one giant car rant.
- Problem #1: No power steering – So the only cars I’ve driven without power-steering are go-karts and this actually provides a perfect comparison to overall feel of the car. Imagine driving a go-kart from Go-Kart-Racer, adding a few 100 lbs and an extra person. This car has no power, no maneuverability, and pretty much no visibility. DO NOT RENT THIS CAR IF YOU HAVE A CHOICE. Yes it’s easy to fit this car into small places, but rent a smaller regular car like a Yaris or Kia or something and you’ll do much better.
- Problem #2: Lines mean nothing in Greece – Whether it’s parking lines or lines in the road, nobody cares! Cars in parking lots are literally overlapping the lines horizontally and vertically and in every direction. This is where one of SMART car’s advantages doesn’t help at all… because you don’t have to bother fitting in a parking spot, you just park your car wherever! The lack of line following also results in people driving in the middle of the road . . . this I guess should be expected though.
- Problem #3: Too many tourists renting and driving – So the retardedly high cost of taxis means EVERYONE is renting some sort of vehicle to get around. If you think people are bad drivers normally, tourists + locals = Worst combination of drivers ever. Half of the people are tourists who are driving 30 miles under the speed limits in ATVs and Vespas while the other half are locales who are pissed off and driving 50 miles over speed limits because they’re so upset and want to go fast.
- Problem #4: No street signs – I guess this is kind of expected for a small Greek island, but streets and highways don’t really have signs. Directions to places usually consist of (get on main road… go down . . . make a left pass the Mexican restaurant). Unfortunately, people don’t really tell you how to get on the main road or what Mexican restaurant they’re talking about. Luckily, Santorini is a tiny island . . . so on our first drive to Pyrgos we ended up going to the wrong end of the island… but it only took us maybe 10 minutes more to eventually get back to where we wanted to go. UGH.
After the harrowing trip that was our first Smart Car experience, we decided we needed to refuel, so we stopped at a cute café called Mylos for a very traditional Greek snack: strawberry shakes and fries.
Now exhausted from both trauma and food-coma, we headed straight for our suite to rest up before meeting our friends for dinner . . . only to be waylaid by an impromptu party being held by a New York couple staying in the Executive Suite a level above ours. Our hosts were a beautiful trauma center resident from Russia (Grey’s Anatomy anyone?) and her IT consultant boyfriend who looked like James Marsden, along with our party-all-the-time hotel proprietor Justin, who was acting as bartender for the afternoon. Also joining us was a couple from Norway, who kept saying how happy they were not to be in Oslo, where it’s raining and 15 degree Celsius. Of course, we couldn’t turn down the generous invitation to join them and were promptly handed cocktails and regaled with unbelievable (and un-repeatable) tales from the E.R.
We managed to pry ourselves away from our hosts’ hospitality with just enough time to freshen up and dash out the door again to meet our honeymooning pals Jamie and Greg for dinner at Saltsa. We did our very best not to make a spectacle of ourselves taking pictures of the food that evening, so instead of another food slideshow, I’ll just list the yummy dishes we shared:
- A Santorinian salad (Jamie and Greg hadn’t had one yet during their stay on Santorini)
- Fried Santorinian white eggplant in a sesame and spices crust (totally amazing; hot and crisp on the outside, melt-in-your-mouth sweetness on the inside . . . and I don’t even like eggplant!)
- “Spetsofai” traditional smoked village sausage with peppers in tomato sauce (a dish recommended to us by our new Norwegian friends and which Demian loved)
- Seafood risotto with mussels (great mussels, so-so risotto)
- Sea bass fillet with steamed vegetables and crawfish sauce (a fine, but unmemorable dish)
- Mixed kebab on a pita bread with yogurt and tomato sauce (incredibly moist, flavorful meat patties . . . probably the best dish of the evening)
We then decided to gild the lily by ordering dessert. I went for what turned out to be a way-too-sweet “Lokoumi” ice cream with caramelized rose petals, Demian had a pretty standard panna cotta with strawberries, and Jamie and Greg shared a decent chocolate soufflé cake. All-in-all, though, it was a very enjoyable evening catching up with friends halfway around the world.
Day 3
Our last full day in Santorini, I felt a little bit like Kobe beef—stuffed with delicious, luxurious foods and the massaged until tender! Not a bad time!
Cooking Class at Selene
We started the morning with a cooking class at Selene, a well-reputed slow-food restaurant that recently moved from Fira to Pyrgos. The cooking 5-hour cooking class (of which we were the only attendees) began with a lesson on Santorini’s agricultural history, including a tour of a very funky series of museum exhibits depicting everything from traditional hunting (mostly of birds) to gathering and winemaking. Most of these exhibits showed a wife hard at work, with her husband sitting on a donkey or a cushion.
For the next part of our class, we had an opportunity to taste traditional produce and products unique to Santorini, including fava beans (yellow pea-like beans very different from the Italian variety), caper berries and leaves, white eggplant, Santorini tomatoes (a small, irregularly-shaped fruit with highly-concentrated flavor, resulting from the fact that it requires no water to cultivate), round zucchini (also grown without irrigation), hairy cucumber, and beetroot. We also tried some traditional Santorini-style bread (twice-baked to dry it out, so that it can last for up to 6 months); it is so hard that you have to soak it in water to soften it before you can eat it. Softened and crumbly, it kind of tasted like Grape Nuts! We also participated in an extensive tasting of cheeses unique to Greece (which apparently cannot be exported because they aren’t pasteurized—too bad). The cheese fell into two classes: male (harder cheeses requiring aging) and female (lighter, creamier cheeses created from the leftover whey from male cheeses). Even for a cheese novice like me, all of the cheeses were pretty darned delicious. My favorite was the male version of a traditional Santorinian cheese. The cheese we found most interesting (and wished we could take back to share with our friends) was one that had been aged in red wine barrels and, as a result, had an overwhelming taste of hard alcohol.
After the tasting concluded, we moved into the kitchen to watch the head chef and sous chef of Selene prepare the courses we would later eat for a late lunch, including: (1) cold tomato soup (very similar in taste to gazpacho) with cheese ice cream, (2) fava with mastic sap (the bitter, licorice-like sap from a coniferous tree), (3) lamb shoulder with eggplant puree, and (4) melitinia, a dessert traditionally made at Easter consisting of a sweet cheese filling inside a phyllo tart. We totally geeked out and took tons of pictures (and with our Flip camera, lots of video which I may upload to YouTube, if I can figure it out). The chef spoke in Greek, while our guide translated—it was like being in a Food Network kitchen . . . so cool!
Finally, we were able to enjoy a lunch of the items we saw prepared and learned so much about. I absolutely loved the cold tomato soup with cheese ice cream (although I wished there was a little less of the ice cream), but my favorite was the fall-off-the-bone lamb shoulder… so flavorful and hardly gamey at all! So good! The only dish we didn’t get to try was the melitinia (no explanation for its absence); instead, we had a refreshing cold strawberry soup with lime-basil sorbet.
Overall, I thought the class was fascinating and would definitely recommend it to other foodies.
Exploring Oia
After the cooking class, we made our way back up the coast of Santorini to Oia, situated on the highest cliff of the island and reputed to have the best view of the most beautiful sunsets in the world. The town itself is a more relaxed, cleaner version of Fira, and we spent some time poking around and buying up souvenirs before getting massages (why not? It’s vacation!) at Caldera Massage and making our way to Nectar and Ambrosia (another place recommended by my colleague) for dinner. We again managed to restrain from taking pictures of another beautiful, tasty meal, which this time consisted of a Waldorf salad, sautéed mushrooms, and chicken souvlaki (with two terrific sauces—red peppercorn sauce and a dill sauce), followed by an incredibly moist and honey-sweetened semolina coconut cake . . . I’m drooling just thinking about it! Since we again managed to pick a table without a view of the sunset, I excused myself from the table a couple of times to run to the edge of Oia to see the sun. A huge crowd had gathered to take pictures, but, amazingly enough, folks were pretty polite and made room for newcomers. One would think that after awhile, the sunsets on Santorini would start to run together and become unremarkable, but each one is different. Because it was a bit overcast that evening, the sun streaked the sky with iridescent-colored clouds. Totally breathtaking, and a great way to end our time in Santorini.
Day 4
Since we didn’t have to leave for the (really tiny) Santorini airport until 2 p.m., Demian and I decided to go back to Mylos to get brunch. When we’d be there earlier in the week, they had an entire menu devoted exclusively to waffles, so I knew that this was the place for me. (In walking around Fira, we noticed a ton of shops advertising waffles and crepes . . . I wonder if the island gets a lot of Belgian and French tourists . . . .) I ordered what turned out to be a gigantic waffle with honey and cinnamon (I can’t believe I finished the whole thing . . . I’m so gross!) and a fresh peach juice (which was really good!), while Demian ordered a “cheese toast”—i.e., grilled cheese, which came with these delicious chips (I think they must have been cheese flavored or something).
A few hours later, we were on a plane back to Athens for an overnight stay before heading to the Seychelles! As I write this, we’re about fifteen minutes away from heading to the airport, so au revoir until then!
- Ikastikies Entrance
- Ikastikies Outside
- Ikastikies Living Room
- Ikastikies Second Bedroom
- Ikastikies Second Bedroom Bed
- Ikastikies Second Bedroom Mirror
- Ikastikies First Bedroom Desk
- Ikastikies First Bedroom
- Ikastikies Bathroom
- Ikastikies Bathroom Sink
- Ikastikies Bathroom Tub
- Ikastikies Welcome Snacks
- Ikastikies Party
- Ikastikies Patio
- Vanilia Sign
- Vanilia Garden
- Steamed Mussels at Vanilia
- Santorinian Salad at Vanilia
- Together at Vanilia With Tuna Spaghetti and Waiter’s Thumb
- Yogurt Ice Cream at Vanilia
- Bitter Chocolate Souffle at Vanilia
- Firostefani at Dusk
- First Sunset in Santorini 9
- First Sunset in Santorini 8
- First Sunset in Santorini 7
- First Sunset in Santorini 6
- First Sunset in Santorini 5
- First Sunset in Santorini 4
- First Sunset in Santorini 3
- First Sunset in Santorini 2
- First Sunset in Santorini 1
- View of Oia from Firostefani
- Volcano
- View of Fira
- The Death Trap
- Demian in SmartCar
- Strawberry Shake at Mylos
- Dinner at Saltsa with Jamie and Greg
- Dinner at Saltsa
- Pink Moon from Saltsa
- Husband and Wife
- Tomato Production
- Traditional Kitchen
- Wine Press
- Tasting of Santorini Products
- Fava Beans
- Dried Capers
- Caper Leaves
- Caper Berries
- Caper Buds
- Traditional Breads
- Washing Produce
- Traditional Santorini Produce
- Zuchhini With Crazy Seeds
- Santorini Tomato Paste
- Santorini Produce
- Greek Cheeses
- Tomato Soup Pre-Blender
- Tomato Soup Post-Blender
- Ingredients for Cheese Ice Cream
- Ingredients for Fava Puree with Mastic Sap
- Cooked Fava with Carrots and Onions
- Fava Mixture Pre-Blender
- Fava Puree
- Roasting Eggplant
- Peeling Eggplant
- Washing Eggplant
- Pureeing Eggplant
- Lamb Shoulder Ingredients
- Lamb Shoulder in Roasting Pan
- Pastry Ingredients
- Filling Phyllo Dough
- Cold Tomato Soup with Cheese Ice Cream
- Prawns with Fava Puree with Mastic Sap
- Roasted Lamb Shoulder with Eggplant Puree
- Strawberry Soup with Lime Basil Ice Cream
- Rainbow Cloud in Pyrgos
- View from Nectar and Ambrosia in Oia
- Oia Sunset 6
- Oia Sunset 5
- Oia Sunset 4
- Oia Sunset 3
- Oia Sunset 2
- Oia Sunset 1
- Oia
- Oia at Sunset
- Waffle at Mylos
- Peach Juice at Mylos
- Grilled Cheese at Mylos










































































































































